Backyard Sunset Watch

 We have watched some spectacular sunsets from the back yard; last night's was no exception.  The routine:  Pull out the folding chairs, uncork a nice Sauvignon Blanc, munch on cheese, crackers, and settle in for Mother Nature's beautiful spectacle.  A great way to close out the day or the week. Last night, Bailey was even in awe of the sunset and was rewarded with occasional nibbles of cheese.  There is a reclining humanoid looking sculpture out about 30 meters from the shore.  Local lore is that a sculptor created these rock formations from volcanic rock all over the island; this one was a mermaid. Over the years, the sea has reclaimed many of her features.  Still, she's a striking silhouette at sunset. Speaking of striking silhouettes, isn't Bailey looking like a ferocious guard dog?  It's his job to protect us from all the shrews that populate the yard, and mermaids that drop in from the sea . . .  it's a job he takes very seriously.

Today marks nine months since we have been living in Mauritius, and we have but 15 months left here . . . roughly 460 more backyard sunsets.  Each one unique----we never tire of our evening tradition.

Ambassador's Special Self Help Program

One of my great joys as a diplomat is being the administrator of the Ambassador's Special Self Help Grants program.  These are small foreign aid grants that are awarded and administered by the U.S. Embassy in the host country.  This year, our Embassy awarded grants totaling $80,000 for ten small projects in Mauritius and Seychelles.  The projects range from helping set up a women's catering cooperative on Rodrigues Island to rehabilitating a school for special needs children in Mauritius. Once the grants are awarded, it is up to the Embassy staff to monitor the expenditure of the funds.  Last week, I made site visits to inspect the progress of three of the grant recipients.  Our small grants are already making very large differences in the lives of many.  At a Mauritius school for developmentally disabled children, a major renovation has already taken place to expand teaching areas and make all areas wheelchair accessible. At a non-profit community center for physically challenged adults, we provided cooking equipment so the adults can get training and make some income cooking commercially.  My third visit was to a health clinic and NGO dedicated to diagnosing and treating Type 1 diabetes, for whom we bought a new state of the art diagnostic device.  The staff was receiving training just following our presentation of the equipment.

The U.S. foreign aid program is always a source of some controversy at home, particularly when the economy is as bad as is this one.  Partly, the positive results of our good works are unseen by the American public.  This stuff rarely, if ever, makes the news. By contrast, what is often seen on the news are foreign people burning our flag and taking shots at Americans.  Seen from up close, our aid projects, especially small, targeted ones like the Self Help program are extraordinary opportunities to improve the quality of life of many at relatively small cost; in doing this, people worldwide get to experience America's caring and compassionate character.  I'm proud to be that kind of American.

"I expect to go through this world but once; therefore,
any good thing I can do, any kindness I can show
to any fellow creature, let me do it now.
 Let me not defer nor neglect it.
For I shall not pass
this way again."

   ---Anonymous            

Taming of the Shrew?

No, we haven't been reading Shakespeare here on the island!

Our little dog Bailey has spent months hoping to find a playmate, but Mauritian dogs are all waaay too big and wild.  This week, during his 5am, still-dark-outside walk, Bailey jumped and barked with delight, "For I am he born to tame you, Kate."  This tail wagging, leash tugging pronouncement was immediately followed by our sad little Petruchio's shriek ...  "Oh, monstrous beast!  How like a swine .. how foul and loathsome is thine image!" 

 Not a shrew, nor a hedgehog, the Mauritian Tailless Tenrec is a cartoon-like evolutionary mixture with bristle-like fur that feels awful in your mouth - as Bailey learned the hard way!  Growing to a whopping 10 inches and 4 pounds, it sure looked like a puppy to play with, but this was nothing like the loving nips on the neck he used to give his girlfriend back in the US - blech! Sorry fella; we'll keep looking for a more suitable playmate.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tailless_tenrec

Carved Pineapples: A Delicious Art Form

If you read all the tourist books on Mauritius, you won't find a mention of my favorite art form . . . the art of pineapple carving.  Take a regular football sized pineapple, trim off the skin and the scratchy top; and you are left with an oblong yellow orb with pockmarks.  Then you painstakingly slice spirals around the pineapple, pockmarks are gone, and you have an artistic, delicious creation!  Drop into a clear plastic bag, and voila . . . it's nature's dessert or a great afternoon snack.  Shelly likes hers in the afternoon with hot chili and tamarind sauce; I take mine straight for breakfast.  If you happen to be in Mauritius, just ask for one by its Creole name:  "zananas plisey".  Whatever it's called, you can say we've acquired a taste for great works of art!

May Day Political Rallies in Mauritius

 

Here are Shelly's impressions of the Labour Day political rallies in Mauritius:

Today, May 1, was a public holiday in Mauritius, and a day of political rallies for the two major national parties.  Of course my political wonk husband had to go observe - both rallies - and I tagged along.  Through my untrained eye, this is what I gleaned …

• oooh, the party with the colors orange & purple has the most eye-catching banners!

• sure are a lot of 20-somethings in the Youth Party

• feeling an odd aversion to the party with an acronym that's a combination PMS and PTSD … no woman in her right mind wants that!

• why are they wasting money handing out "gimme" gifts like skimpy scarves and head bands?

• who the heck decided to place the stage so the speakers were facing into the blazing sun … fire him!

• crowds gets quieter as the temp gets hotter

• sure wishing some party had money for "gimme" gift umbrellas - any color!

• what angel decided to place the stage so the listeners had their backs to the sun … LIKE him!

• hmmmm, not a port-a-potty in sight

With these insights, I guess it's a good thing I'm not eligible to vote here!

Giving Thanks in the Vedic Tradition

 

The annual Hindu calendar is rich with ceremonies, but there are some that never make the calendar.  This weekend we were invited to participate in a 3-day prayer and praise celebration by a Hindu family as thanksgiving for their many blessings -- and in particular, the blessing of restored health.  We were struck by the elaborate mantras and the rituals of fire and the warm, open welcome we were given by the celebration's hosts.

Known as Maha Yajn, the ceremony consisted of the oral recitation of certain ancient Vedic mantras (hymns) by various clergy accompanied by sections of the Vedas chanted by the devotees. Over the course of three days, the clergy, both male and female priests, chanted some of the 400 sacred verses written in Sanskrit and dating from the Vedic period (1500 BC to 500 BC) which preceded modern Hinduism, and is sustained in practice today by Brahmin Hindus.  An essential element of the yaj ceremony is the sacrificial fire - the divine Agni - as everything that is offered into the fire is believed to reach God.  Among the herbal preparations offered as oblations in the fire were large quantities of ghee, coconut, and grains.

The Four Vedas

The philosophy of yajna teaches a way of living in society in harmony.   It promotes a lifestyle which protects higher human values in society and strives to form the basis of an ideal human culture. The word yajna is derived from the Sanskrit verb yaj, which has a three-fold meaning: worship of God, unity, and charity.

Obedience and Sacrifice

Piercing the tongue has a long history in religious and performance practices.  Mesoamericans such as the Aztecs practiced this as well as other perforations as a part of offerings to their deities.  Islamic Fakirs and Sufis from the Middle East, and Asian Spirit Mediums from the Far East practiced tongue piercing as an offering and proof of trance state.  Here in Mauritius, it is Hindus of various sects who practice it as a sign of obedience and sacrifice.

Likewise, the tradition of firewalking is part of several traditions here in Mauritius.  Firewalking is the art of walking barefoot over a bed of hot embers or stones. Firewalking has been practiced by many people and cultures throughout the world, with the earliest known reference dating back to Iron Age India, around 1200 BC.  It is often used as a rite of passage, as a test of an individual's strength and courage, or in religion as a test of one's faith.

I took these photos on Easter Sunday about a block from our house.  The piercings and firewalking were part of a Hindu celebration, demonstrating obedience and sacrifice.

Talking About America

Promoting Embassy activities on the radio
speaking in Mauritian Creole

Talking to Rotary about the
international fight against Somali pirates

Meeting Mauritius President Jugnauth (left)
talking politics

Following banquet with Port Louis City Councillor
and our U.S. Navy Defense Attache 

Introducing Jazz Appreciation Month artists

I spent the last couple weeks filling in for a colleague, who was on temporary assignment at another Embassy.  Added to my regular work, it was a very busy and interesting time, with several public appearances and meetings with civic and governmental leaders.  No two days are alike, and it is a great assignment every day to represent America.    

Jazz Appreciation Month Celebration

Jazz Appreciation Month Celebration in Port Louis, Mauritius
April 13, 2012

An important part of the work of an American Embassy overseas is to educate and inform  host country citizens about the United States and its culture.  As diplomats, we each take part in the Embassy's activities to proudly show off our country.  Where possible, we show how the U.S.A. has impacted other countries or cultures.  Last week, I was honored to emcee our Embassy's celebration of jazz, as a uniquely American art form that has been adopted throughout the world.  We recruited local musicians and groups to show their stuff as part of Jazz Appreciation Month.  What was so impressive is how many excellent Mauritian jazz artists have been inspired by Louis Armstrong, Dizzy Gillespie, Ella Fitzgerald, and other legends of American jazz.  One group of young artists had learned to play their instruments from a talented and dedicated teacher, who himself was self-taught in each instrument and jazz itself.  I was proud to be part of a celebration of an art form that started in America, but has become a cherished gift to the world.  

Half a World Away

Shelly and Comanche Elementary retired teachers

View from the back yard

 The last four weeks, Shelly has been in the USA seeing family and friends, going to a special niece's wedding, and I've been stuck watching sunsets by myself in Mauritius. This one was tonight, a few hours ago.  Shelly and Heather traveled together to Florida, where they stayed with Damon and saw his bridge building competition in Tallahassee.  Then, Shelly headed out west to Albuquerque while Heather went to Washington to continue her job search.  They all reunited last weekend in New Mexico where Heather was maid of honor and Damon was an usher in Karen Maisel's wedding to Ajrn Paulson.  The wedding was on a old West movie ranch set between Albuquerque and Santa Fe.  The pictures are wonderful!  Looking forward to having Shelly "home" in Mauritius next weekend; as busy as she's been, she'll need some sunsets on the beach!