Hindu Wedding: The Ceremony

On Sunday, we attended the wedding of Hans and Lovena at the ornately decorated auditorium in Rose Hill, Mauritius. This Hindu wedding ceremony was a celebration of family, as parents, grandparents, and other family members sat on the stage as part of the service.  First the bridal couple exchanged their fragrant flower necklaces with each other, followed with a civil ceremony by a government official, whose job it was to have the happy couple show their ID cards (I kid you not), fill out some forms and write their names in a big black book.  Following that, the Hindu holy man officiant began the real ceremony which included a great deal of other people---parents who held a candle on a tray in front of the couple, a ritual of gift giving involving the best man and maid of honor, then the lighting of a small hibachi fire in front of the couple, followed by their circular tour of the fire seven times around.  Each different activity was punctuated by prayers, music, and important sounding pronouncements by the officiant.  At the end of the nearly two hour service, the happy couple traveled back to the bride's, then groom's, houses for the receptions, which also were defined by traditional foods and rituals.  We were welcomed with open arms and hearts, and as you can see, were encouraged to take pictures at every turn.  And the celebration did not end there . . . on Monday, the bride and groom families hosted each other at their respective homes.  Sadly, we had to work that day.  The whole weekend was another in our series of wonderful cultural experiences in Mauritius!

Hindu Wedding: Sanjeet Party

We were honored to be invited this weekend to a Hindu wedding, a very elaborate, traditional and fun event.  In the wedding of Novena and Hans, there have already been an engagement party, and earlier this week a ladies party at which the bride-to-be received wedding gifts and had her hands intricately painted with henna; the Sanjeet Party is a separate event for each family---we attended the groom's family party, across town, the bride's family was hosting a similar party of eating, dancing, and singing.  We were immediately ushered into the elegant tent-covered reception hall that just days previously had been the groom's family's front yard and driveway.  White and red linens adorned the walls, chairs, and tables; lights and a beautiful chandelier lit it up.  The carport had been converted into a dance hall, and the seating area was unrecognizable as the driveway.  A formal stage was adorned with beautiful fresh flowers.  We were warmly welcomed, and made to feel at home; talk, pictures, meeting family members.  I got to use my few rudimentary Mauritian Creole phrases repeatedly, to the surprised giggles of listeners, young and old.  Dinner was a traditional hands-only variety of seven curries and rice served on faux-banana leaf sheets.  I sat next to the oldest brother/uncle ("cha cha") and he proudly pointed out his five successful children, all of whom are India-educated medical doctors, each married to medical doctors.  Dinner was followed by singing and dancing---and great anticipation for Sunday's wedding ceremony at the temple.  See our next post for that!

Giving Thanks

Thanksgiving is my favorite American holiday.  Why? It's uniquely American.  And when stripped of its football and door-buster specials, Thanksgiving is a mostly non-commercial day in celebration of the bounty of the harvest . . . the cornucopia that is our family, friends, and blessings of life and liberty.  In so many respects, Shelly and I are richly blessed this year. Our family and friends, despite the miles, are closer than ever thanks to the miracles of internet communications technology, combined with the strong bonds of kinship and friendship.  We have a whole new set of friends in the diplomats and host country folks we've met.  We are especially thankful for the wonders and the challenges of our new lives in service to America---how having a calling larger than ourselves changes our perspective on the world and on life's occasional annoyances.  Today was a celebration of this uniquely American holiday with the US Embassy staff (Americans and Mauritians) and other resident Americans here.  We spent the morning cooking (see Shelly with her friend and cooking teacher Meeta above), then we trundled over to the American Ambassador's residence for a day outdoors in the sunshine . . . kids running three legged races and bobbing for apples, then a beautiful potluck feast of turkey and all the trimmings, followed by line dancing on the patio.  It was great fun with great new friends and colleagues, and a celebration of our unique holiday.  Happy Thanksgiving one and all!

 

Peace Corps/Kazakhstan and Heather

Our daughter Heather has had quite a week.  She describes her sudden new circumstances in her blog, which you can link to from this blog, called "Heather and Thither".  Her letter is so beautifully written and important in our "All Over the World" family, though, I wanted you to see it here:

Dear Friends,

Three days ago I was sitting in my classroom, sorting (new!) books for our school's growing English library when my Regional Manager from Peace Corps called and read to me a carefully worded message from our Country Director: the Peace Corps program in Kazakhstan is closing. Following a number of individual assaults on volunteers, some possible terrorist attacks scattered around the country, underhanded local political smears on Peace Corps Kazakhstan, and a long-awaited meeting with a recalcitrant Minister of Education, the director of Peace Corps world-wide has determined that we "can no longer maintain a program in Kazakhstan that meets Peace Corps' standards for volunteer safety and programmatic effectiveness."

So I'm leaving.

I don't know exactly what comes next. I have hugged all my co-teachers and held back tears as they each separately exclaimed, "But we had so many plans! So many ideas!" I have explained to classes of wide-eyed students that I must leave for America, promising that indeed I will not "forget to them" (their prepositions perhaps highlighting my unfinished work?). I have sat for my last tea with my Kazakh mother who worries that I'll get too skinny when I'm no longer eating her manta and plov. On Tuesday I will get on a bus and leave Zhetisai—nineteen months earlier than I had expected. I'm sure that there are other doors opening even as this one swings shut in my face, but I worry more about the doors available to my students, to my Kazakh colleagues, to my new friends.

I'm moving through these days with a somewhat surreal hovering feeling, a bit numb to the unreal-ness of the situation. Fortunately in a bizarre stroke of luck, my mother and dearest friend had been planning for months to visit me this November and are here (though leaving on flights today) to help me process, to help me pack, and to take a bushel of photos of the life I've been living for the past 8 months.

I'm sure I'll write more once I've landed firmly on new ground—I have so many stories and photos for blog posts that I've been mentally composing in hopes of stable internet! So check back in, but this will be the last blog "post-marked" from Kazakhstan.

Love,

Heather

Exploring the Stella Maru

While Shelly was busy visiting Heather in Kazakhstan, I went scuba diving to a submerged wreck on the bottom of the ocean.  Called the Stella Maru, it was a Japanese fishing trawler that was deliberately sunk about 25 years ago to create an interesting dive site.  It's about 60 feet below the surface of the ocean, about 1/2 mile from shore, and not more than a mile as the seagull flies from our house.  Wow!  Approaching it from a distance, you get this hazy outline of a big dark hulk on the ocean floor, and as you approach, its finer points come into clearer definition . . . the huge hole in the hull, the mast, the restricted spaces below deck, and the thousands of fish and natural life that make it home now. I've heard it said that ships on the bottom of the ocean stay remarkably well preserved, and that certainly is the case for the Stella Maru; the steel superstructure of the boat is very strong.  Most interesting though were the families of fish that had made their homes in the various holes, crevices, and under ledges. Beautiful and fascinating.   Another day spent in the magic of Mauritius! 

Damon and Engineers Without Borders

Damon has been extra busy these last few weeks.  In addition to taking a full load of classes in his junior year of civil engineering at the University of Miami in Coral Gables, he works 15 hours a week in an internship for a Miami civil engineering firm, serves as President of the University's bridge building civil engineering competition team, and volunteers for the school's chapter of Engineers Without Borders.  The EWB team, some of whom are pictured here at a recent conference, are preparing for a spring/summer trip to Peru where they will work on basic civil engineering public works infrastructure in a village setting.  The club has been busy raising funds for the costs and materials of the project.   EWB is a 10 year old service organization committed to making a difference in some of the world's poorest areas:  bringing water systems to communities, building schools, and assisting with the design and development of roads and other essential public infrastructure.  The link for donations and information is here  http://www.ewb-usa.org/

Needless to say, we are very proud of Damon and the way he is spending his "spare" time at college!

Shelly Cooks, Teaches, and Parties in Kazakhstan

Heather and her just-turned-7
year old host family brother

Heather having lunch in the cotton
field during a day of cotton-pickin'

The next in a series of reports on Shelly's trip to visit Heather in Kazakhstan.  We last saw our heroine as she was boarding the Kazakh train from Almaty to Shymkent, a 14 hour overnight ride.  She reports that it was very comfortable, and she was able to sleep most of the night in the private compartment that Heather had rented for her travelers.  They arrived in the regional capital, Shymkent, on Monday morning, and Heather capably got them across town to the taxi stand where they hired a car to take them the 2.5 hour trip across the Kazakh steppes to her town, Zhetysai.  Once in Zhetysai, they settled in to Heather's new apartment where Shelly (yes, Shelly) cooked dinner, a delicious vegetable curry dish she has learned in Mauritius.  Tuesday dawned, and the trio (Shelly, Heather, and Heather's boyfriend Chase) headed down to the school.  Once there, Heather had arranged for her students (and other English classes) to pepper her guests with their own questions in English . . . "how old are you? (to Chase) when did you first meet Heather? How much money do you make?"  Heather reports that Shelly and Chase managed to conduct all the teaching that went on today for several classes.  In an email to me, Shelly marvelled at what an excellent teacher Heather has become.  The end of the school day meant it was time for the trio to go to a birthday party at Heather's Zhetysai host family . . . her host family brother was turning seven.  As they entered the house, they noticed that the dining room table was absolutely packed with food . . . Kazakh delicacies all.  Chase ate in the traditional fashion with his hands, and Shelly offered a Kazakh-style toast thanking the host family for taking such good care of our mutual daughter.  A huge hit, all translated by Heather into Kazakh.  As I spoke with Heather by phone to get this report, I heard uproarious laughter in the background and the sounds of people communicating and enjoying each other's company without the need for common language.  In short, just what "Peace Corps" means . . .

Shelly & Heather Together in Kazakhstan

Heather and her host family Opa
(grandmother) who met Shelly yesterday

Kazakh train

Shelly left this week on a long-anticipated trip to visit Heather in Kazakhstan.  Here is the first report on the trip, gleaned from a telephone call I had with Shelly and Heather just a few minutes ago (Sunday 11-13-11).  Shelly's flight from Mauritius through Moscow, then to Almaty, Kazakhstan on Thursday and Friday was long, but uneventful.  She stayed at a new Ramada hotel near the Moscow airport, and met a very happy Heather at the Almaty airport Friday evening.  Heather's boyfriend, Chase, is visiting from Washington, DC, and Shelly's trip overlaps with his by several days.  Saturday morning, the threesome went to the village of Birlik to visit with Heather's first host family.  Shelly describes the visit as "magical"---seeing this lovely close-knit family who are so welcoming and hospitable, and, like us, adore our daughter.  Shelly got to meet the 85 year old grandma and the rest of the family.  She reports that horsemeat doesn't taste so bad, and that she's now tasted camel's milk for her first and only time.  Shelly had taken some small gifts for the family, which were well-received and appreciated.  Shelly was overwhelmed by the wonderful hospitality and generosity of the family.  Back in Almaty, they spent the rest of the weekend touring and dining.  One highlight was a visit to a war memorial Saturday evening, where they happened to see visits by no less than 8 bridal parties for a traditional laying of flowers and wedding pictures in full wedding regalia.  Shelly was impressed with the beautiful ornate wedding gowns that ran from Kazakh traditional to contemporary.  They also visited an ornate, elaborate Russian orthodox cathedral.   Just as I was talking with them on the phone, they were at the train station, getting into their sleeping compartment for the 14 hour ride to Shymkent, the largest town near Heather's post.  The overnight train ride will be followed by a 3 hour ride in a marshutka (van) to Zhetysai.  Shelly reports that Heather's ability with the Kazakh language is great, and she is a great tour guide after living in Kazakhstan for 8 months.  Shelly says she is having a great time---over the next 2.5 weeks, she will help Heather's school by running a training seminar for Heather's English teacher colleagues, get to meet her second homestay family, and help her settle in to her new two room apartment.   Stay tuned for more reports on Shelly's extraordinary visit! 

Almaty Russian Orthodox
Cathedral

Almaty War Memorial

11:11 on 11-11-11

A special Veterans Day . . . which was called Armistice Day, ending the first world war on the 11th hour of the 11th day of the 11th month.  Now it's the 11th year. It's a special day to honor those who have served our country in the uniformed services.  A day to honor and appreciate the sacrifices made by these honored few.  I grew up in a military family, and know full well the sacrifices made by veterans, and those who now serve.  So, to veterans everywhere, thank you for protecting us and the freedoms we cherish.  You, your contributions and sacrifices, and those of your families, are not forgotten. Thanks, veterans!

An Eloquent Response

NOTE TO READERS:  I haven't done this in the blog before, but I feel compelled to do so today.  A few days ago, presidential candidate Rick Perry questioned whether foreign service officers work in the nation's best interest.  I could spend lots of time drafting a response, or I could just copy a beautiful response done by another foreign service blogger.  So that is what I did.  This is from the blog called Email from the Embassy ( http://emailfromtheembassy.blogspot.com )

I'll Bet I've Met More Diplomats Than Rick Perry Has.

I've met lots and lots and lots of diplomats over the past decade or so. Heck, I even married one.

But of course, I'm not a diplomat myself. Which is why I can say, very undiplomatically, that Rick Perry is a moron. Go read this and see if you don't agree: http://politicalticker.blogs.cnn.com/2011/11/07/perry-questions-intentions-of-american-diplomats/. Said Mr. Perry: “I’m not sure our State Department serves us well. I’m not talking about the Secretary of State here. I’m talking about the career diplomats and the Secretary of State who, all too often, may not be making decisions, or giving advice to the administration that’s in this country’s best interest.”

Here's the way it works, Mr. Perry, since you're clearly not too familiar with how the Foreign Service operates. The U.S. Department of State looks for the smartest people it can find, and then, if it can interest them in a low-paying, lonely and dangerous job, somewhere in the far reaches of the globe, it hires them.

We have Republican diplomats. We have Democratic diplomats. We have gay diplomats. We have diplomats who oppose gay marriage. We have Muslim diplomats and Jewish diplomats, and girl and boy diplomats. Single parents can be diplomats, as can childless singles. We might even have (or at least we might have had, until today) diplomats who are Rick Perry supporters. We have just about every type of diplomat you can imagine, because we represent a fairly diverse cross-section of America.

What we don't have, Mr. Perry, are diplomats who joined the Foreign Service because they wanted to give screwed-up advice directly to President. You won't find a single person in the entire State Department who joined solely to get rich, or to advance a personal agenda at some great cost to our nation.

People don't always agree with each other in the Foreign Service, and people don't always get along on a personal level. But Foreign Service officers always advance the agenda of our government, without fail. And they work together, no matter their personal beliefs. Because that is what they were hired to do. Imagine that, if you will: Democrats and Republicans, all working together on behalf of our nation - it happens every single day in the Foreign Service.

I'm guessing our pal Rick Perry hasn't actually met a Foreign Service officer before. But he probably knows there aren't a whole lot of them out there (I'm told it is still true that there are more military band members than there are FSOs). Since there aren't a lot of FSOs, maybe he figures it's okay to insult the whole lot of them - after all, even if every single one of us votes against him, we don't have enough votes to collectively guarantee a loss for him. And here's the kicker: if he somehow manages to pull off a victory, those very same Foreign Service officers whom he just mindlessly insulted will stand up and support his policies across the globe.

Because that's what the Foreign Service is about. Diplomats support American ideals in every country across the globe, often at great risk to themselves and their families. Diplomats (and their boss, the Secretary of State) don't set their own policies. Rather, they serve as boots on the ground, the eyes and ears of the President in every corner of the globe. Diplomats report back what they see and hear and think in these countries that Rick Perry has probably never considered visiting. They present the facts - and yes, they present their own educated opinions - so that our President has the information he needs to create and direct policy. Once the President decides on policy, these same diplomats work to advance his agenda. Not their own agendas, mind you. Never their own agendas.

If they feel strongly enough that they can't support the President's policies, they resign. It happens, on occasion. If you suddenly find that you can't support current policy, you resign, and you go look for a job in the private sector, where you are allowed to disagree publicly with our nation's policies, and where you probably make more money, too.

But the rest of those diplomats work for the United States of America. They don't work for the Republicans, and they don't work for the Democrats. They work for us, for our country. Always.

And shame on you, Mr. Perry, for suggesting otherwise just so you could win a few votes. Shame on you.

Underwater Mauritius: Our YouTube Video

Shelly and I have spent the last couple weekends under the Indian Ocean!  We are making good use of our scuba diving certification, and we've found a couple dive centers to take us out into the big ocean and show us their favorite sites.  We've seen some phenomenal sea life, and got pictures of quite a few fish, plant life, and coral to share with you.  We thought it was pretty enough that it would make a good video, so we have just posted our second all-time YouTube video.  Runs about 7 minutes, and has some nice George Winston piano accompaniment.  Click HERE to access the video or on the URL listed below.  Enjoy!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N3NYV1_AFes&feature=colike

This is actually our SECOND YouTube video.  Our first one, called Mauritius Sunsets is not yet a best seller, but it does show a collection of views of sunsets from our back yard, over the Indian Ocean.  Click HERE if you want to see some beautiful sunsets, or click on the link below:

http://youtu.be/8r0eBdIL6b4

Whether you prefer life on the surface, or under it, we hope you enjoy seeing what we've been seeing the last few months!

85 Years

It was 85 years ago today that my dad, Bob Campbell, was born.  As my brother Jay has been going through the family photos, he came across these classics from Dad's 1955-56 tour as a military assistance advisor in Iran.  He spoke Farsi and taught soldiers marksmanship and other skills.  He was probably 29 years old in these photos.  Handsome. Worldly. Curious. Adventuresome.  He lived long enough to see Iran go from an American ally to a fierce opponent and international scoundrel.  Still, his recollections were mostly positive:  about a welcoming people who greeted him and his colleagues with respect.  

A year ago today, a large gathering of family and friends met in Albuquerque to celebrate his life.  We shared stories of his stories: of landing on clouds and being stuck for days, of eating purloined canned peaches from the commissary, of night flights in wounded airplanes over hostile territory, of escorting Soviet leader Nikita Krushchev and French President De Gaulle through San Francisco, and of sending a box of pipe cleaners to General MacArthur's table in a Phillipines mess tent.   

He led a life of adventure and service, and was a patriot. As we said last year, a grateful family and nation thank him for his life and work.   Happy 85th, Dad.  Rest in Peace.      

The Last Resort . . .

Paddleboat pinkies

Keeping an eye on the ocean

until the next one, that is.

View from the room

When we were faced with two local public holidays in a row in the middle of the week, what did we do?  We did what many Mauritians do . . . we went to the beach to hang out.  Only different. Monday after work, we checked in at a lovely small resort on the northwest coast of Mauritius.  This country has more than three dozen world class resorts that ring the island, and help give it a great tourism reputation.  It is well deserved.  With a Monday and a Tuesday night available, we managed to find a nice couples resort, with a romantic theme.  Based loosely on the love story of Paul et Virginie, this Veranda resort was a nice, quiet getaway.  If you wanted activities, they could be found . . . paddle boats, snorkeling, scuba.  But, if you simply wanted to hang out by the pool and by the beach all day (like us), and get massages at the spa, you could do that too. A couple lazy days of sun, sand, back rubs, and eating seafood. It was lovely and revitalizing.  So today, we're back to our more mundane day-to-day lives . . . of sun, sand, back rubs and seafood.   

New bartenders

Lobster was the specialty